On the Madre de Dios in Peru

The trip to Peru got off to a less than smooth start . We missed our connection in Miami resulting in an overnight stay at the airport hotel. After managing to get on a flight to Lima the next afternoon, we stayed overnight at a Lima hotel in the Miraflores neighborhood (not a full night - 3 hours sleep). Then off to Cusco on a 6 AM flight followed by a flight to Puerto Maldonado where our adventure was to officially begin. Paul (really Pablo but the gringos seem to feel more comfortable with Paul) met us at the airport and took us to the InkaNatura office. After selecting some wellies that fit, it was off to the dock to board our boat for the trip to the Heath River Wildlife Center.

We were the only members of our tour group; we boarded a long and narrow boat built to handle 12 to 16 passengers. It ended up being the two of us, our guide, a worker at the lodge, and 2 boatmen. The ride to the lodge was estimated to be about 7 to 8 hours on the Madre de Dios River and the Heath River. Our lunch was a rice and protein mixture wrapped in a banana leaf. It was much tastier that the description.

After about 4 hours we came to the Peruvian border. There was to be a border inspection and a chance to use the rest rooms. After looking at the rest rooms, I decided to use the jungle. The official inspected the boat for safety equipment, and we were on our way. Within 10 minutes, we came to the Bolivian border. The flag on the boat was changes form the flag of Peru to the flag of Bolivia. The captain went up the steps from the water to the office. He soon returned without an official; I guess he was too busy for an inspection. Meanwhile, we clutched our Yellow Fever certificates as we were assured they would be needed when the customs official cleared us to enter Bolivia. No one ever asked for our Yellow Fever certificates. We have let some friends see them , but they were not impressed. Perhaps, they could become Bolivian border officials.

All during the river trip, we passed lots of people who make their livelihood on or along the river. Besides the fishermen, individuals and families plied the rivers with cargos of lumber, Brazil nuts, and all sorts of supplies for river settlements.

Although gold mining is generally illegal, there were numerous floating sluices operating along the edge of both rivers. I guess lots of people believe they will make a big strike. The problem that it is causing is erosion of river banks which upsets the ecosystem.

If you would like to see a few more images of our first day in the Amazon basin, go to Peru2010_1

The trip to the Heath River Wildlife Center took about 8 1/2 hours. We ran aground in the shallow river 4 times requiring the crew to get in the water and rock the boat free. It was kind of an African Queen moment (you will know what I mean if you remember Humphrey Bogart pulling the boat through the reeds and shallow water). We arrived in the dark and ready to be on shore.