A Trip to Granada and Another Visit to La Alhambra and Generalife

When one visits Andalusia, some consideration must be given to visiting Granada and the historic site of La Alhambra and Generalife. This was part of our plan long before we climbed aboard the plane to Madrid. So, in early September, we discussed renting a car and taking off from Sevilla for a visit. Thinking it might be a good idea to reserve tickets for our visit, I attempted to reserve them online on September 2nd. I soon discovered that they were sold out through October. Panic set in. We had been to La Alhambra on two occasions in the early 1990s. On both occasions, we just walked up to the ticket window, bought our tickets, and entered. Twenty five plus years later, this is not the case. 

If you are clever enough to buy tickers well in advance, the price is 14€ per person. They sell out quickly and many are purchased by companies that offer guided tours. Since I was too late for the 14€ tickets, I started searching for a reasonable offer from a tour company. The best that I could do was to purchase tickets to La Alhambra and Generalife for about $50 each. This came with a tour led by an English speaking guide. With the tickets confirmed, a car was reserved for Sunday, October 7th. 

When October 7th arrived, we headed to the train station to pick up our Dollar rental car. At the rental office, Hertz, Thrifty and Dollar are offered at the same desk. Hertz owns both Dollar and Thrifty. In Sevilla, all the rentals come from the same pool of cars. I'm not sure if we received a Dollar car, but we did get the Dollar price. The rental paperwork was in process when a man standing next to me found that he had reserved his car for the wrong month. His $35 per day rental was now going to be 85€ per day. I suggested he get online and re-rent via a US company like Orbitz or Kayak. He was doing that as I departed the office. Rental cars are much less expensive wen reserved from the US.

We were in our rental car and on the road by 8:30 AM for the 2.5 hour drive to Granada. Our tour was at 2:00 PM; we had plenty of time to find our way. We found parking in the Alhambra parking lot and walked down the hill into Granada. 

passing the Justice Gate of la Alhambra on the way to town

In town, we walked around a bit. The Cathedral was closed and would not reopen until we were on our tour. We did not get to see the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabela. I suppose they haven't changed since we last saw them in the 1990s. So, it was off to lunch, and then, we hurried back up the hill to meet our tour group. 

statue of Isabela and Christopher Columbus in Granada

La Alhambra, the Red One in the original Arabic, was started as a small fortress in 889 AD using the remains of a Roman fort as its foundation. In the middle of the 13th century, construction of the current structure was begun. After the Christian reconquest in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella and is where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition. At that same time, the palaces were partially modified in the Renaissance style. Over the years, the complex fell into disrepair. It was no longer used by Spain's royal family. 

Washington Irving, the American author, is attributed with the popularity of the Alhambra. In 1828, Irving completed a biography of Christopher Columbus and traveled to Spain to continue some research for a book called A Chronicle of the Conquest of Granada. He went from Madrid to Granada. It was love at first sight. He was enamored by the city calling it "a most picturesque and beautiful city, situated in one of the loveliest landscapes that I have ever seen." He gained permission to explore the Alhambra Palace.

Irving was inspired by his experience to write a book entitled Tales of the Alhambra. Through his writings, Irving popularized the Alhambra.

The Alhambra is a complex of several buildings, palaces and fortifications. Nearly adjacent to it is Generalife, also called the Palacio de Generalife (pronounced something like, hen-er-a-lee-fay) and translates from Arabic to mean the architect's garden. Generalife is the summer palace, and true to its name is filled with gardens.

a view from Generalife, Alhambra to the left and Granada in the valley below 

many of the gardens have water features popular Arabic design

The palace design and structure is similar to the Alhambra in its arches and intricate plaster ornamentation. 

the intricate design is molded, not carved

After visiting Generalife, we move on to the Alhambra. 

The Tower of Justice (Puerta de la Justicia) is the original entrance gate to the Alhambra, 1348.

 Some of the architectural remains of the original fort

The structure above was ordered to be built by Charles V, who wished to establish his residence close to the Alhambra palaces. He never lived here and the roof was not completed until 1957.

 The central patio in the palace of Charles V

Mexuar Court detail 

interior detail 

The Serallo Court

Palace of the Myrtles 

 The Court of the Myrtles

 Palace of the Lions

 Patio of the Lions

Palace of  the Lions

Patio of the Lions 

Alhambra gardens 

Alhambra gardens 

A few photos cannot begin to show the grandeur of this incredible complex. One must visit it to truly enjoy its wonders. Granada is a wonderful city to visit, spend a few days to really enjoy it.

PS: Buy your tickets well in advance of your trip. They sell out quickly is worth spending time wandering around this vast complex on your own.