Some observations from our month in Sevilla
There are some things that have become fixed in my memory as a result of our month in Sevilla. We stayed in the Triana barrio which is across the Guadalquivir River from Sevilla's central barrios, El Arenal, Santa Cruz, and La Macarena. Living in an apartment for this period of time changed my perspective of Sevilla. Previous visits lasted for just a few days. These are now some of my vivid memories.
Its origins are from Latin, but a couple of centuries ago in Spain, it was used to say "good bye" to someone and maybe, to close a letter. Today, it generally means okay. It can mean all right, do you agree, or that's enough. It can be a question or an affirmation.
It's interesting to note that the last word of Don Quixote is "Vale".
The Triana bridge
Nearly every day of our stay in Sevilla, we crossed the Triana Bridge multiple times. The bridge is officially known as la Puente de Isabel II, but for most, it's the Triana Bridge. The 10 minute walk from our apartment across the bridge brought us into the Arenal barrio of Sevilla connecting us to all of the historic barrios and their sites.
Plaza del Altozano
I call it the Triana plaza. It is always busy. The photo above is on Sunday just after noon. Plazas like this, and larger or smaller, are the places where people meet. It is clear that many are regulars at their favorite tapas bars.
Animal prints are in vogue
Animal prints were clearly the preferred pattern to adorn women's fashion in Sevilla, perhaps, all of Spain. From head to toe, animal, especially leopard, prints were everywhere. Since, I am no fashion expert, I'll end my comment on fashion.
Saturdays are wedding days all over Sevilla. Well dressed family and friends crowded large churches and small chapels to witness the nuptials. Almost without exception, the newly married couples were whisked away in a well decorated or vintage car.
Columbus, good guy or what?
In the US these days, Columbus is not always seen in a positive light. He mistreated the natives, and he delivered European diseases to the Americas. Columbus Day is no longer a big deal in the US, but in Spain, Columbus Day still exists. The day commemorates the discovery of the New World more than the man. Columbus did not discover the route to the East Indies, but his discovery led to a great deal of wealth flowing into the Spanish coffers. Columbus had his ups and downs after discovering the New World, but in the end he was buried in a prominent tomb in the main cathedral in Sevilla.
Cars stop for pedestrians
Cars stop for pedestrians in a crosswalk. What is even more amazing is that cars stop for pedestrians who are just stepping off the curb into a crosswalk. Using a crosswalk without dodging a car or cars was a pleasant experience.
Roller bags, they're everywhere
Roller bags are ubiquitous. Kids use them for their books and school needs. From kindergarten to high school, roller bags follow kids on their way to the classroom. People heading to the gym pull roller bags filled with their gear. People starting or returning from a trip were trailed by roller bags. Some people were pulling these bags for purposes we could not determine. Backpacks are still used by many, but roller bags seem to be preferred.
Narrow Streets
Yes, there are many narrow streets. Their masonry walls are not forgiving. Side mirrors, if not folded back, are scarred with their encounters with bricks and mortar. The cars' side panels fare no better as is demonstrated by the scratches and dents that reform their metal exterior.
Urban Gentrification
I guess it is happening everywhere. Pushing out the old, the poor , and those who grew up in, what are now described as, declining neighborhoods. In Sevilla, the expansion into older, poorer neighborhoods is happening just like so many other cities in the world. It is certainly happening in Austin, and it happened while I was growing up in Philadelphia. In Sevilla, tourism is a key driver, especially with the advent of short term rentals.
Walking through a neighborhood in Sevilla, one that was about to be gentrified, I saw this poem in a window (photo above). Here is a rough translation:
In this house lived I,
In this neighborhood lived my people.
Now live only cameras, suitcases and museums.
Am I not a work of art?
I'm just a postcard,
For your memory,
For your profit.
Tapas Bars Are Never Far Away
It is difficult to travel down a street in Sevilla without encountering tapas bars. Some are simply offering tapas and others are offering more extensive fare as well. We dined at many of these establishments. They were largely very good. Most had fairly fixed menus and often offered daily specials.
Menu translations were often interesting.
Bullfight or corrida de toros
Yes, bullfighting is still alive and well in Spain - not so much for the bull. I did go to a bullfight on a Sunday afternoon in Sevilla. The arena was filled to capacity with men and women, as well as old and young. There is a grace and art in the ritual, and it is appreciated by the crowd. Only one of the 4 fights received oral bravos from the crowd and the waving of white handkerchiefs signaling an exceptional performance. I'm glad that I attended, but I do not see another bullfight in my future.
Rental Bikes
Sevilla is bike friendly. It is easy to find bike racks all around town. It was clear that many locals used bikes for transport to and from work as well as just getting around town. They were used rain or shine.
Photos in El Mercado
One knows that they are beginning to feel like a local when one feels inconvenienced by tourists taking photos of fruits and vegetables in the market. I wish they would take their photos and move out of the way. We've got shopping to do.
Cruz Campo is there another brand of beer?
Cruz Campo is the beer brand that dominates Sevilla and Madrid. Perhaps, it is the case in most of Spain. No complaints about Cruz Campo; I did indulge enough to give my approval. They make a very good NA beer which is available at every tapas bar or restaurant that we visited. The NA beer is often on tap. The USA should take note.
Choir Practice
The photo above is the view that we had from our apartment window. The semi circular building is a school, and it is connected to a church. We assumed that it was a religious school. Each Thursday evening that we were in Sevilla, we could hear the choir practicing in the school building. It wasn't too loud. As a mater of fact, it was quite enjoyable.
PS: One of the central barrios in Sevilla is Macarena. Yes, this Macarena is the one referenced in the song of the same name. It was one of the greatest one hit wonders by Los del Rio. The group of two, Antonio Romero Monge and Rafael Ruíz Perdigones are from the small town of Dos Hermanas just south of Sevilla.
Vale
You will hear this word every single day in Spain. Some Spaniards toss this word in between every breath and even say it several times in a row. What does it mean? It can mean many things depending on the context. Its origins are from Latin, but a couple of centuries ago in Spain, it was used to say "good bye" to someone and maybe, to close a letter. Today, it generally means okay. It can mean all right, do you agree, or that's enough. It can be a question or an affirmation.
It's interesting to note that the last word of Don Quixote is "Vale".
Nearly every day of our stay in Sevilla, we crossed the Triana Bridge multiple times. The bridge is officially known as la Puente de Isabel II, but for most, it's the Triana Bridge. The 10 minute walk from our apartment across the bridge brought us into the Arenal barrio of Sevilla connecting us to all of the historic barrios and their sites.
I call it the Triana plaza. It is always busy. The photo above is on Sunday just after noon. Plazas like this, and larger or smaller, are the places where people meet. It is clear that many are regulars at their favorite tapas bars.
Where did Antonio go?
The first week or so during our month in Sevilla, we would encounter Antonio at the cash register in the MAS store. We bought many things at MAS, mostly things that were not available at the Triana market. After the first week, Antonio was never to be seen again by us. Maybe, he was promoted. One can only hope.
The Kleenex Man
We would see the street vendor that we referred to as The Kleenex Man almost every day near the Triana plaza. He was a friendly guy and always said hello. I'm not sure how many packets of tissue that he sold, but he always seemed to be offering his wares with a broad smile..
We would see the street vendor that we referred to as The Kleenex Man almost every day near the Triana plaza. He was a friendly guy and always said hello. I'm not sure how many packets of tissue that he sold, but he always seemed to be offering his wares with a broad smile..
Animal prints were clearly the preferred pattern to adorn women's fashion in Sevilla, perhaps, all of Spain. From head to toe, animal, especially leopard, prints were everywhere. Since, I am no fashion expert, I'll end my comment on fashion.
wedding at the cathedral
wedding at a small chapel on the Plaza del Altozano
WeddingsSaturdays are wedding days all over Sevilla. Well dressed family and friends crowded large churches and small chapels to witness the nuptials. Almost without exception, the newly married couples were whisked away in a well decorated or vintage car.
In the US these days, Columbus is not always seen in a positive light. He mistreated the natives, and he delivered European diseases to the Americas. Columbus Day is no longer a big deal in the US, but in Spain, Columbus Day still exists. The day commemorates the discovery of the New World more than the man. Columbus did not discover the route to the East Indies, but his discovery led to a great deal of wealth flowing into the Spanish coffers. Columbus had his ups and downs after discovering the New World, but in the end he was buried in a prominent tomb in the main cathedral in Sevilla.
Jubilado pricing
Jubilado is the Spanish word for retired. Jubilado pricing is available for most entrance prices to museums and special events. Often it was as much as a 50% discount. I took advantage of this benefit and was disappointed when not available.
Cars stop for pedestrians in a crosswalk. What is even more amazing is that cars stop for pedestrians who are just stepping off the curb into a crosswalk. Using a crosswalk without dodging a car or cars was a pleasant experience.
Roller bags are ubiquitous. Kids use them for their books and school needs. From kindergarten to high school, roller bags follow kids on their way to the classroom. People heading to the gym pull roller bags filled with their gear. People starting or returning from a trip were trailed by roller bags. Some people were pulling these bags for purposes we could not determine. Backpacks are still used by many, but roller bags seem to be preferred.
Night life
The night life of which I speak is the vibrant life that exists in the cafes and tapas bars lining many streets and plazas. People are out meeting friends, relatives, and neighbors. It is much nicer to be outside rather than be cooped up in one's apartment. The atmosphere is convivial and lasts past midnight.
Yes, there are many narrow streets. Their masonry walls are not forgiving. Side mirrors, if not folded back, are scarred with their encounters with bricks and mortar. The cars' side panels fare no better as is demonstrated by the scratches and dents that reform their metal exterior.
I guess it is happening everywhere. Pushing out the old, the poor , and those who grew up in, what are now described as, declining neighborhoods. In Sevilla, the expansion into older, poorer neighborhoods is happening just like so many other cities in the world. It is certainly happening in Austin, and it happened while I was growing up in Philadelphia. In Sevilla, tourism is a key driver, especially with the advent of short term rentals.
Walking through a neighborhood in Sevilla, one that was about to be gentrified, I saw this poem in a window (photo above). Here is a rough translation:
In this house lived I,
In this neighborhood lived my people.
Now live only cameras, suitcases and museums.
Am I not a work of art?
I'm just a postcard,
For your memory,
For your profit.
It is difficult to travel down a street in Sevilla without encountering tapas bars. Some are simply offering tapas and others are offering more extensive fare as well. We dined at many of these establishments. They were largely very good. Most had fairly fixed menus and often offered daily specials.
example of a menu
Menu translations were often interesting.
translations to English can be interesting
Yes, bullfighting is still alive and well in Spain - not so much for the bull. I did go to a bullfight on a Sunday afternoon in Sevilla. The arena was filled to capacity with men and women, as well as old and young. There is a grace and art in the ritual, and it is appreciated by the crowd. Only one of the 4 fights received oral bravos from the crowd and the waving of white handkerchiefs signaling an exceptional performance. I'm glad that I attended, but I do not see another bullfight in my future.
Sevilla is bike friendly. It is easy to find bike racks all around town. It was clear that many locals used bikes for transport to and from work as well as just getting around town. They were used rain or shine.
One knows that they are beginning to feel like a local when one feels inconvenienced by tourists taking photos of fruits and vegetables in the market. I wish they would take their photos and move out of the way. We've got shopping to do.
Cruz Campo is the beer brand that dominates Sevilla and Madrid. Perhaps, it is the case in most of Spain. No complaints about Cruz Campo; I did indulge enough to give my approval. They make a very good NA beer which is available at every tapas bar or restaurant that we visited. The NA beer is often on tap. The USA should take note.
The photo above is the view that we had from our apartment window. The semi circular building is a school, and it is connected to a church. We assumed that it was a religious school. Each Thursday evening that we were in Sevilla, we could hear the choir practicing in the school building. It wasn't too loud. As a mater of fact, it was quite enjoyable.
good night Triana
PS: One of the central barrios in Sevilla is Macarena. Yes, this Macarena is the one referenced in the song of the same name. It was one of the greatest one hit wonders by Los del Rio. The group of two, Antonio Romero Monge and Rafael Ruíz Perdigones are from the small town of Dos Hermanas just south of Sevilla.
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